Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Mt Murud Trek - the walk from Ba' Kelalan to Pa' Rabata

19th October: After three days of seemingly idle, relaxing strolls amidst the greens of Ba' Kelalan's paddyfields and sometimes purposefully high-school-ish coversations in the dark after dinner was quietly jolted by the arrival of the rest of our trekking team from Miri on Monday, a huge amount of luggage as well as a sudden realisation that we were in Ba' Kelalan to scale Mt Murud, the highest mountain in Sarawak at 2413m.

The team was made up of a motley crew of walkers and trekkers in it for the adrenaline rush of another challenge and a couple of birdwatchers intent of birding Murud. Chris Haneveld, Sara Wong, Jackie Fong, Faye Osman, Sparrow Tan, Edward Ong, Yeo Teck Seng, Ting King King and Dr Rangamal. Some have been training for this for weeks if not months on various other peaks like Lambir and Gunung Nuang before this.

Our first task was to conquer the Ba'Kelalan outer ridge and to make it in one piece to Pa' Rabata, our first jungle shelter on the same day before the trek proper to Mt Murud Church Camp at 2200m. Apparently the ridge is supposed to be the first measuring stick of whether any of us would make it to the summit.

We set off at approximately 0900 hrs 19th October after sorting out our packs and load allocation for the porters. We had with us 2 guides, Gukang and Ating, as well as 5 porters with us for the trip.


Sorting out the load before the start of our trek.


Jackie trying out the porter's load for size at our first stop before the ridge.


Our porters raring to go ... looking at the weight on their backs gave a new meaning to travelling light, they move along the trails like a ghost, silent, sure footed as if they are flying along weightless.


We all made it to the ridge which a good sign to the days of more trekking the next couple of days. Leeches encountered weren't as many nor problematic as we had predicted, perhaps because of the drier weather in the area the past few days that we were there.


View of the canopy from the ridge. The trek up to the ridge was through a community forested cherished by the Ba' Kelalan folks. There were quite a few birds heard along the trek however our paced didn't allow any prolonged stop. We were eager to make it to Pa' Rabata before nightfall.

We had our first break at 1030 hrs, and we made it to the first rest stop at a very good pace. The porters with all their allocated load caught up within 15minutes of our arrival. Considering the weight they had on their backs, they either took the secret elevator up or flew. After a short break we continued our journey uphill to the ridge.

We got to the ridge top in one piece at almost 1130hrs, the porters joined us shortly after. The cool wind sweeping across the ridge provided the well deserved respite. Having made it this high was a good sign that we'll all make it to Church Camp the next day. Surprisingly there were only a few leeches encountered along the way. But there was one pesky little guy that made to the mid thighs of yours truly and actually drew blood, this fact was only discovered upon a thorough body check at Pa' Rabata a few hours later, the slimey bastard!

The rest of the trek was mostly downhill on disused logging trails towards the valley. If going uphill was tough, going downhill on a sunny day at noon was tougher considering the constant jolt to the knees and lower back. It seemed like a never ending trail and there was very little in terms of anything interesting along the way.

One curious note was the presence of cow hoofprints all over the hills and along the overgrown logging trails. Apparently these were of cows belonging to the surrounding villages which left their charges to roam free. The cows are apparently hunted for meat as and when needed, sometimes by the owners themselves, and at other times by more opportunistic individuals.

We made it safely down the valley to Pa' Rabata about 2:30pm, by then utmost in everyone's mind was to stop moving altogether. With knees wobbling and back aching, it was a huge relief to finally be able to sit down knowing fully well that the tough part is over, or at least we thought it was "the toughest" if only for that particular day.

In almost high spirits, packs were opened, cups of tea and coffee were distributed around the shelter. In a short while one by one, took to the rocky stream next to the shelter to clean up in cool clear water.

Phew! We made it over the ridge!!!


The 5 hour trek winding uphill and downhill after the ridge did not affect our porters at all, they all smiles. Either that or we provided them with enough comedy all along the 5 hour trek that day.


Our porters taking a breather after promptly making tea and coffee for the team.


The view of the canopy from the grounds near Pa' Rabata jungle shelter.

Next up: The trek up to Lepo Bunga and Murud Church Camp, 20th Oct 2010.

A few days in Ba' Kelalan prior to Mt Murud Trek

Friday 15th November was declared a public holiday in replacement of Saturday, on the occasion of Yang Di Pertua Negeri Sarawak's birthday ... perhaps the only person in the world who's birthday can be bandied about on any convenient day as decided by the ruling government of the day. Wonder whether he was asked, "Is it OK if we change your birthday to some other day, Sir?"

It was however a great opportunity for us to finalise a few last minute preparations for our group's intended Murud trek on Tuesday.

Our advance trekking party flew into Bekalalan Saturday morning, a few days earlier than the rest of the team. Upon arrival what needed sorting out was sorted while we filled the rest of the days with leisurely pursuits in the beautiful countryside such as birdwatching and stalking paddyfields.

Sara, Chris and Nazeri formed the advanced party who waslater joined by Rangamal, Yeo, Faye, Jackie, Edward, Mr Tan, and King king who flew in on Monday, a day before the Mt Murud Trek was to begin.

We had the place to ourselves for a few days ... and what a wonderful three days we had!

16th Oct, Saturday
0730 hrs Fly to Bekalalan
0915 hrs Arrival Bekalalan Airport
0948 hrs Check-in at Sang Sigar's Homestay in Buduk Nur
1200 hrs Lunch
1330 hrs Explore Sang's backyard for birds
1900 hrs Dinner


A man's car ... all muscle and can go anywhere ... no whining here.


Heavenly view from the twin otter, not sure where this is exactly.


Sang Sigar and Julia's beautiful home in Buduk Nur, our base in Bekalalan.


Lush bamboo groove in the backyard of the house.


We were checking out the bush for an owl that was reportedly seen by several people in the area. We were unlucky that day but there were many other birds in the area ... we heard quite a few.


We the buffaloes wallow, we were spying on a few Wood Sandpiper in the same area.

17th Oct, Sunday
0730 hrs Breakfast
0830 hrs Stroll the villages
0920 hrs Entered Long Langai
0954 hrs Entered Long Lamaput
1100 hrs Reached the nice dusun at the end of Long Lamaput
1200 hrs Trudging along the paddyfields between Long Lamaput and Long Langai
1300 hrs Lunch and rest at Sang's house
1638 hrs Walked towards Salt spring
1727 hrs Reached the Bailley Bridge
1815 hrs Reached Sang's house


Rustic view of the paddyfields are a staple here, everywhere you turn to there's bound to be some expanse of green, so soothing.


Local cuties at Long Langai stealing a moment away from Sunday's church service. Both Long Long Langai and Buduk Nur has a grand churh in the making. The church in Long Langai comes complete in concrete and Grecian columns, construction still awaiting final touches.


Along the dirt road towards Long Lamaput, another small village on a hill, there goes the green again.


A sweeping view from a knoll overlooking the green paddyfields and surrounding hills.


A small village stream flows quietly.

18th Oct, Monday
0818 hrs Introduced to Headmaster of SK Bekalalan in Long Langai
0820 hrs Started an impromptu "Birdwatching 101" for Primary 6 students
0915 hrs Walked to Bekalalan Airport to meet members of trekking team
1052 hrs All trekking members at Sang's house
1400 hrs Birdwatching with SK Bekalalan's Primary 6 students
1559 hrs Wrapped up birdwatching excursions with students
1630 hrs Walked back to Sang's house


A bucolic scene right in front of our homestay, a resolute buffalo absolutely refused to budge despite the unrelenting insistence of his masters. He only moved when they finally realised that they can't make the beast do their bidding this day. The buffalo gingerly walked away when they relieved him of his day's load.


While everyone else drew two eggs with a beak, two legs and a tail, our young friend Johny from SK Bekalalan sketched a Rhinoceros Hornbill to the amazement of many in the classroom.


A lone abandoned house in the middle of a paddyfield, could be a haven for those seeking solitude and waiting for divine inspiration, all it needs is a bit of sprucing up and a few well placed potted flowers.


Young birders eager to discover the birds in their backyard, each equipped with a binocular supplied from the school. These young folks are fortunate to be having such a backyard.


I spy with my eye a tiny little bird with an orange breast and grey mantle.

The three days in Bekalalan pre-Murud was wonderful; the days were filled with easy conversations with Sang and Julia about day to day life in the village, gentle stroll in the countryside amongst the paddyfields and delicious home-cooked meals by Julia.

We will be exploring further collaborations with SK Bekalalan through Sang to bring birdwatching activities to the the youngsters as well as more birdwatchers to the village hopefully to everyone's benefit.

Please email us if you wish to get more information about idyllic Bekalalan and how to visit.